Basque Country Traditions — Dining Out at a Sagardotegia (Cider House)

If you should decide to visit the Basque Country between January and May, one of the truest experiences you could live is dinner at a sagardotegia. That’s what folks around here call the local cider houses. Fact is, if you combine the Basque word “sagarra” (apple) with the word “ardoa” (wine) and “tegi” (place) you’ll get a clue of what the topic for this post is.

Cider houses are firmly rooted all around the outskirts of San Sebastian, scattered as they are in neighboring villages such as Astigarraga, Hernani and Urnieta. Inside refurbished farm houses, some more than others, (all, however, preserving an exquisite ancient charm), one can savor a simple, mouth-watering menu. As a starter, there’s pork sausage awash in cider, cod omelette or, its equally succulent alternative, cod with peppers. Second up, is a Basque-size T-bone steak. Desserts include cheese with quince and locally produced biscuits. All of the above, of course, are accompanied by all the cider you can drink, served straight from huge, wooden cider barrels. A warning based on first-hand experience: never underestimate the elixir-like qualities of this beverage.

The tradition of dining out at sagardotegias dates back to the days when customers, restaurants and dining clubs would get together to sample the season’s vintage before it was bottled up. Naturally, everyone would bring along their home-prepared afternoon snacks to share with all those present. The custom of eating while standing and from the same plate originated here. Also born here was a prevailing spirit of conviviality that persists to this day — groups of friends mixing it up, talking animatedly, singing and laughing around the barrels, which surround the eating area or are strategically situated off to the side in adjoining annexes. Everyone awaits the “txotx” or the cry of the cider house’s proprietor announcing refills.

Photo by adriagarcia

Without a doubt, cider houses are one of the Basque Country’s most enduring and beloved cultural traditions.