Any Given Day in Havana

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“Havana is like a beautiful woman when she gets out of bed”. That’s how a veteran cabbie described his beloved city, as he steered his Soviet-engine, American-manufactured ’53 Cadillac up and down the Malecon. We approach the legendary “Hotel Nacional“, and without lifting a foot from the accelerator, turn into “La Rampa” (“The Ramp”) and zig-zag onto Calle 21. We’ve reached the house where I’ll be staying during the next four days. It’s a nice feeling to arrive in an unknown city and be able to call it home. “This is much more real”, I think to myself.

Upstairs Carolina and Lenin (yeah, that’s his real name) welcome me. They live together with their son at Casa Sandelis. They lead me to my room. I step out on the balcony and am struck by the Nacional’s proximity. I can see the interior of some of its rooms. “You’ll find less luxury but more love here”, says Carolina from the door, with a smile that inspires confidence.

The trip here has been a long one and I need to eat something. I walk a hundred meters to an inviting restaurant called La Roca. “A minute steak with Creole rice.” A laid-back waitress jots down my order.

Energy restored, I hit Old Havana. I get lost among its streets and am delightfully surprised when I come upon La Plaza de Armas and its second-hand (or third-hand, who knows?) book market. I rummage for a few minutes through diverse biographies of Che Guevara. “This is a first printing, and they’re now in their 30th, my friend, take it”. I choose a book of verses by Jose Martí instead.

I pass by La Bodeguita del Medio but tourist camera flashes shoo me away. After crossing the cathedral’s square, I arrive at Café O’Reilly. A band composed of four mulattoes is singing “Chan-Chan”  in front of a dozen appreciative onlookers: several British, a Spanish couple and a group of young Cubans enjoying, as they down mojitos,  rather lively conversation. I park my bottom at an outdoor cafe and watch Old Havana transform at twilight.

I approach the group of youths and inquire where I can go tonight. A girl immediately pipes up: “Go to La Casa de la Musica. It’s the best place to dance salsa.” Another group member suggests checking out Miramar “to dance more reggaeton”. I confess that I’m a bit knackered, so they end up sending me to jazz joints in El Vedado.

I’m not really sure whether they play the sax better at La Zorra y El Cuervo or if Cuba’s best sax players are to be found in either of these clubs, but it doesn’t really matter now, does it? All I know is that between note and note, I’ve just put an end to any given day in Havana.

Five sure ways to enjoy Montreal at night

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Les Deux Pierrots. I recall my night at Les Deux Pierrots as one of the best. I don’t think I’ve ever sung or danced so much in my life. I just couldn’t keep still, listening to the live band playing that night. I even sang songs typically Quebecois. This bar is so special and creates such a unique atmosphere that you feel like you’ve entered a universe of similar-minded amigos.

Café Campus. Until I hit Montreal I didn’t think it was possible to go out Tuesday nights, one after another. Café Campus is the sacred meeting ground for college students from all around the city. Eighties/nineties tunes accompanied by rat-killer beer kept us singing and dancing without reprieve. A few meters away, you can find Tokyo Bar and Ballroom, two other clubs to hit Thursdays after “4 a 7″.

Bili Kun / Gogo Lounge. If you’re looking to knock back a beer or down a cocktail, at the top of my suggestion list is Bily Kun. Few bars capture the essence of Mont Royal better. If you like this place and want to continue enjoying the Montreal nightlife, don’t forget to hit The GoGo Lounge located over in St. Laurent. Unquestionably, one of my favorites.

CodaClub. Montreal is a city where electronic music is omnipresent and CodaClub is the temple of reference. Acts like Crystal Castles have played here.

Club Opera. The two times I went to Club Opera I had a good time, but felt these weren’t exactly my kind of people. If you want to see and be seen, this is your place. With a little luck, maybe you’ll even see a Montreal Canadien hockey player lounging about. And If you want to beat the $20 cover charge, sdon’t forget to sign up for one of the club’s “guest lists” on the Internet.


The Best Beaches in Euskadi (The Basque Country)

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The smell of salt peter. The sound of waves. The pleasure of a sea breeze. A beach represents all these sensations and much, much more. Which is why I love to escape, whenever I can, to one of those beaches that are a mere stone’s throw away. These are my favorites, so keep them in mind whenever you come to Euskadi. I’ve chosen these fabulous four because of their distinctive appeal.

Zarautz. One of surf’s hot spots in Spain (a surfing world champioship is celebrated here every September) located smack center in the village of Zarautz. Young folk are inclined to take a few totes while looking out to sea. Perhaps the only drawback is that the beach is submerged whenever high tides roar in.

Karraspio (Mendexa). Located two kilometers from Lekeitio, Karraspio Beach carves out an idyllic passage whenever there is low tide: the Lea River disappears, joining the beach with Isuntza Beach and St. Nicholas Island. A spectacular stroll culminating in a crystal-clear, refreshing dip.

Ogeia (Ispaster). A small cove just a 15-minute drive from Lekeitio and perhaps not as frequented as the other beaches mentioned. The beach is flanked by boulders, the water is crystalline, but the best part is a natural patch equipped with places to grab a snack or, if you prefer, stone B-BQ ovens, enabling you to merge that perfect combination of beach + food + good friends.

Laga (Ibarrangelu). This beach is set inside Urdaibai National Park and has a special flair. It is surrounded by verdant mountains and sea cliffs, and even has a nearby forest where many adventurous souls in vans opt to sleep under the stars. The beach of Laida is not far away, and straight ahead is legendary Mundaka with its famous left-drift waves.

A rather complicated night

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Last week we found ourselves in Barcelona attending a workshop for entrepreneurs. We had become familiar with the Centric Point Hostel last summer and, since we liked it, decided to give it another whirl. Perhaps when you’re not in travel mode, staying overnight at a hostel is not your best option. Following is a minute-by-minute account of a rather complicated night:

23:37 We enter our room. It has six beds. In one of them, a girl from Hong Kong is sound asleep. Mikel, Jokin and myself unpack our bags and get into our respective beds. It looks like it’s going to be a calm night, as it should be, given our meeting-filled agenda tomorrow.

23:45 I set the alarm for seven a.m. and shut off the phone. I’m exhausted and waste no time in closing my eyes and falling asleep.

23:52 Two new roommates enter. Though respectfully quiet, they still manage to wake me. I should have no problem resuming my blissful snooze, it’s just a matter of waiting for them to fall asleep and have silence pervade the room once more.

00:03 Our new mates fall asleep. But my prediction is off the mark. Far from silence reigning, double-barrel snoring commences unabated, with no end in sight. Were a noise-meter placed in the room, I believe it would register 140 decibels. I’m not kidding.

00:16 I don’t want to get teed off. I give my new mates the benefit of the doubt, believing that The Revenge of Thor will soon pass. I cover my ears with my fingers, though I doubt I’ll be able to hold this positiion very long. I try covering my head with the pillow, and though it does muffle the noise some, it’s still impossible to get any shut-eye.

00:29 This is now torture. Mikel and Jokin are equally desperate and awake like myself. We have no choice but to take action. We start making “nac, nac, nac” sounds, which supposedly quiet the most determined snorers. No matter how high we raise our “nac” volume, there’s no way of shutting these guys down and making them realize our problem.

00: 46 Suddenly, we hear angry fists banging on the wall that separates us from the adjoining room. We’re not alone in our fight, though the results are the same.

01:45 Nearly two hours have passed since this calvary began and these two incessasnt snoring machines continue working in overdrive. Despite our own-noise-making efforts, a nuclear alarm wouldn’t wake these two up.

02:06 Just what we needed. Finnish teenagers running through the halls, showing unequivocal signs of post-partying madnesss. Slamming doors. Screaming, Shouting. Welcome to Hostel Hell.

02:35 I’m desperate. PISSED OFF. Nervous. Feeling aggressive. At this rate, I’m not going catch a wink. And tomorrow promises to be a long, intense work day. The time to take drastic measures has arrived. My most impulsive side emerges. I grab my sack, wallet and mobile and head for reception to reserve a room for myself. Whatever it takes, whatever it costs.

02: 40 I start walking downstairs. When I hit the first landing, I see there’s a group of girls at the front desk. I check myself out in the mirror: I see my pajama, a sleeping bag wrapped around my head and my wallet and mobile in hand. I think. I take my time. I see this group has no intention of leaving. Despite my desperation level, I don’t want these girls to see me this way and think I’m crazy. I return to my room and abort the mission.

02: 57 My final strategy is to fall asleep to the sound of music. Jokin follows suit. Simon & Garfunkel’s Greatest Hits has worked for me in the past since I was a kid. I bet on the sure thing. As the songs advance, my anger dissipates and sleep takes over. Paradoxically, “The Sounds of Silence” is the last song i hear. What a classic.

07:00 My alarm goes off. I’m dying from sleep deprivation and, to worsen matters, my head is about to explode from listening to Simon & Garfunkel for four hours. It’s a new day. Cést la vie.

P.S. I want to go on record as saying: People who snore should have the decency and common courtesy to NOT share rooms. For the good of society. Amen.

Why Facebook Connect at Trourist?

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Whenever we’re planning a trip and need to find a destination, we encounter tons of info which we don’t quite know how to process. Why? Mainly, because we don’t know whether to trust whoever wrote the stuff in the first place.

That’s why our aim at Trourist has been and continues to be to create a community of people with similar travel bugs – a community where quality prevails over quantity. In this community, friends play a key role since they are the ones we know most and who can best help us out.

This is my way of leading up to summarizing the advantages of using Trourist with 
Facebook Connect, so you can best use  your Facebook contacts:

- Easier Login Process. How often do we forget our passwords? With Facebook Connect, you can enter Trourist right off without having to stop top remember: What the hell was the password I came up with the other day? If you joined Trourist when we didn’t feature Facebook Connect or you decided to register the normal way, don’t worry. In the “Profile”  section, you can now  link up with your  Trourist acccount from your Facebook account.

- Easier to Add On Friends. When you login with Facebook Connect, you automatically add on your friends’ network from Facebook. Besides, by clicking on “Invite your friends to Trourist” (visible at various points on the web site), we can send an invitation to those Facebook friends of yours who most like to travel. The more friends we have, the more experiences we’ll be able to consult (apart from consulting those experiences of other trourists).

- Share on Facebook those experiences you create on Trourist. It’s a good way to show the rest of your friends (those who don’t belong to Trourist) those very special moments and places which you know. In order for your experiences to appear on your Facebook news-feed, you have to activate the button “Give Trourist extended permissions” and you’ll find it in “Profile”.

We’ve done all this so that you can connect to Trourist in the easiest way possible and for you to have a greater number of genuine experiences to consult and live.

Local Travel

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A trourist doesn’t travel to disconnect from the world but just the opposite: to connect with it. Our main goal at Trourist has always been — and will continue to be —  helping travellers to live special and genuine experiences in every city they visit. In most cases, that means visiting local shops or availing oneself of a native resident’s helpful pointers. This is what we call Local Travel, which we consider the most fun, real and rewarding way to get to know those places we visit.

Besides, this way of travelling so far removed from that offered by behemoth tour-operators, is much more true and reliable. On the one hand, it ensures a more equitable distribution of tourism-derived monies to the people residing at the places visited. On the other hand, this system permits local shops to transmit culture and local customs their way without interference from third parties.

Without a doubt, we love Local Travel because of what it offers us and the communities whose destinations we visit. We feel obligated to come out and say that we are proud of our collaborative efforts with the Local Travel Movement, a grassroots initiative which promotes this way of travelling. If you’d like to learn more about this movement, or wish to find out about similar activities that will allow you to connect directly with people and their local businesses, just visit their web site.

Four experiences I was not able to live

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No matter how intense you live a destination, a thorn pierces the heart of every traveler. That cul de sac you never discovered. That experience which escaped you. That adventure you didn’t quite dare try. Following are some of my personal “thorns”:

1. An excursion for several days trekking through some of the wilder parts of the Grand Canyon. Even though a view looking down is one of the most impressive in the world, I think immersing yourself in the canyon’s rocky entrails for a few days has got to be the best way to feel a part of this natural wonder. Just picture it: you, far from civilization, sleeping under the stars, your only cover. Wow!

2. Getting to know inland Cuba and its people. Havana is a sensual, fun and evocative place, no doubt about it. But I have the feeling that so much tourism has somehow polluted the spontaneity of its locals. Without meaning to, Havanans always seem to be balancing the twin forces of what they really think and what tourists want to hear. Even so, it’s still a cool place, though I’d like to complement it with a trip inland, forging my way through villages where sugar cane is grown. I could do it by train, car, bike, whatever, I don’t care. A Havana-Santiago trek has to be one of the all-time unforgettable experiences.

3. A crazy party on a Croatian isle. The Croatian coast is a true jewel, an Adriatic paradise whose beauty is intense blue, whose small, exotic coves and numerous fishing villages still bear the imprint of many a civilization. In short; a perfect place to lose yourself and chill. Even so, you can always complement all the R&R with a quick getaway to small islands like Hvar, full of young people ready to party their entire holidays away. These islands, like the saying goes, are open till dawn.

4. Catch the Big Kahona at Pipeline (Hawaii). Pipeline, on the island of Oahu, is a wild beach of spectacular beauty, ideal for spending a day. Besides, it’s the mecca of surfing, accessible to only the most skilled experts because of the size of its waves and hazardous reefs. Truth is, it’s gotta be the ultimate to ride a BIG ONE, on display daily from December to March breaking off the shores of Pipeline. Though I have to admit, that more than a thorn, this is a personal utopia since my surfing expertise is nonexistent.

How about you guys? What thorn is piercing your traveler’s heart?

New Experiences Contest: This is LO-MOnth!

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Last week we talked to you about Lomography as a way of preserving a memory of your trips — or even — your day-to-day living.

Today, thanks to the cooperation of Lomography.es, it’s our pleasure to introduce a New Experiences Contest. To win one of the the dream prizes, all you have to do is share with us those special places that make any city special.

Any experience shared on the Trourist web site during the month of May will have a chance of winning in one of the following categories:

Best Experience: All experiences uploaded during the month of May will be candidates to win one of the crown jewels, namely, the “Diana+ DeLuxe Pack“!. No photo, no shot, will be impossible with this versatile prize.

Best Experience in Barcelona: Are you from Barcelona, or do you have something to tell us about this fabulous city? The contestant who shares his or her Best Experience in Barcelona during the month of May will receive a “Diana Mini with Flash Package“. No question, it’s one of the best ways to lomograph your next trip.

Best Experience in London: London is one of the coolest European cities to discover unusual places. Submit your contest entry by May 31st and you just may be eligible with another one of the Diana Mini with Flash cameras!

All winning experiences will be decided by a series of criteria judging authenticity, information content and photograph quality. A jury composed of international judges will decide the winning experiences. The jury will be formed by:

Francesc Balagué: http://www.francescbalague.cat/

Audrey Scott and Daniel Noll: http://www.uncorneredmarket.com/

Lara Dunston and Terence Carter: http://grantourismotravels.com/

Lindsay Hogg: http://thetravellerworldguide.com/

Mike Baris: http://www.mikebarish.com/

Pasquale Caprile: www.lomography.es

You still don’t know Lomography.es? Take a few minutes, enter their web site and discover a whole analogical world.

Think no more, just do it, Good luck to all!

Graffiti baptism

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People who have hobbies are infinitely more fun and interesting than those who don’t. Consider for instance our friend SECK who has a special gift for converting old walls into genuine works of art, a pastime which he does with infectious passion.

His latest work is our Trourist zeppelin. Besides becoming familiar with the process of graffiti art (something new for me), we had a great time. Here’s a 90-second video of my graffiti baptism:

Lomography: taking pix can also be an experience

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Photography is an important part of our trips. Far beyond the aesthetic value of our “work”, pictures immortalize our fun moments and discoveries forever, allowing us to process everything we’ve lived once we’re back home.

Technological advances in photography during the past decade have made available ultra-light and easy-to-use cameras, whose main function is their practicality.  I’d like to call your attention to other cameras that don’t adhere to this criteria however, operating instead on a more human and emotional level such as the experience of recording special moments in a special way with them. I’m talking about lomographic cameras.

Lomographic cameras are some of the best known analogical cameras, whose origin dates back to the early 1980s in the former Soviet Union.  These cameras were initially manufactured with a robust frame and defective lenses which produced surprising snapshots because of the focus deviation and color/light distortion they realized. This, of course, is what made them so special. Taking super-prepared photos is no longer a must; now, you expect a lomographic camera to astonish you with everyday images that stand out or to capture details which normally would go unnoticed.

At the start of the 1990s, a group of Viennese students discovered these cameras during a trip to Prague, and overnight an enormous community of lomographers was born. Their only aims are creative and spontaneous photography, as you will see in the “Ten Golden Rules”.

Nowadays, you can find reproductions of those original Soviet cameras in every color imaginable at their “Embassies” (yes, that’s what they are called) all over the world.